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Where Can I Buy A Flop Chair


Growing up in Soviet Russia, I remember an odd piece of furniture that most of us bought to accommodate an occasional overnight guest. It was an uncomfortable pull-up chair that could be transformed into an equally uncomfortable (and mercilessly narrow) bed. This is why I am so excited about this witty evolution of the old idea by Moscow based designer Elena Sidorova. She aims at the same function, but approaches it with infinitely more pizazz and ergonomic kindness. The Flop chair looks comfortable and spacious, and it can be easily turned into a functional tween bed. And as a bonus feature, all the guest bed paraphernalia (pillows, comforters, and sheets) can be stored right here, inside the chair.




where can i buy a flop chair



FlipFlop convertible chair cum stool is made from engineered wood with water base paint suitable for children. This product is fully assembled and ready for use without any additional assembly step.


There's nothing we love more than a good multi-purpose piece of furniture, as you may have seen with this murphy bed that turns into an office desk, the bean bag bed with a built-in blanket and pillow, or this sofa that has a dog bed built into the armrest. Well, we may have found our new favorite multi-purpose furniture piece, and it's this incredible arm chair that instantly turns into a bed. It's called the fLOP and it was designed by artist Elena Sidorova.The FLOP by default works as a mustard yellow cushioned arm chair but if you pull the top back you can lay it flat to instantly turn it into a bed that would be perfect for guests staying the night, sleepovers for kids, or just to take a nap at the office. When you flip the arm chair into bed mode, the top of it opens up to reveal a storage area where you can store the mattress of teh bed, along with blankets, pillows, and anything else that you'd like to store.Credit: Elena SidorovaThe multi-purpose arm chair bed is made from wood veneer on the side of the bed along with 100% wool, plus the top of the bed is made with elastic straps to make the bed extra springy and comfy under the mattress. Elena, the Russian designer of the chair/bed also states: "I don't only care about comfort and aesthetics of my projects, but also about their long-lasting usage."Credit: Elena SidorovaElena is still looking for a manufacturer for the FLOP chair bed that opens like a book, but you can request a quote and more info on the chair from the site Archello. She states "I am searching for manufacturers right now to produce a whole collection of fLOPs."Credit: Elena Sidorova"Working on the concept of fLOP I was aiming to create a functional example of furniture with useful characteristics such as: good ergonomics both of seating and sleeping, usage of natural materials such as veneer and 100% wool and the possibility of storage inside the construction."Credit: Elena Sidorova"In private interiors fLOP will save space if your guest is going to stay for a night. In an office, especially when people have to stay for extra work until late evening or night, fLOP will solve the problem of rest."Credit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena SidorovaCredit: Elena Sidorova


Make these Flip Flop Chair Socks to protect your floor! The crochet pattern creates chair leg covers that are funny, adorable and useful! Stop your chair from scratching the floor with these super cute and unique flip flop chair socks!


Yarn: Any size 4 (medium) yarn in two colors. You will need approx. 15 yds for the flip flop and 19 yds for the foot (for each chair sock). I used Loops & Threads Impeccable Yarn, Solid in the colors Aqua for the flip flop and Golden Beige for the foot. This yarn is medium (4) weight and 100% acrylic (a skein is 4.5 oz / 127.5 g and 285 yds / 260 m).


Gumbies follow the contours of the foot, the arch of the sole and most importantly provide comfort between the toes, whilst using the most practical, natural and recycled planet friendly materials where possible.


How about saving some space in your home for your sleeping arrangements? The solution featured here is also good if you just want to have an extra bed for when someone comes to visit. Named Flop, and upholstered in 100% wool, the comfy armchair can actually become a bed with a few easy moves! Elena Sidorova, a designer from Russia, has made this awesome piece of furniture. The mattress and pillow are hidden in a compartment when not in use. All you have to do in order to go to sleep comfortably is fold out the armchair and relax. Check out the photos to get a better look of the product.


Keith Nielsen, the incoming chairman of the Harris County Republican Party, came under fire from members of his own party after posting a photo on social media of a Martin Luther King, Jr. quote next to a banana early last month.


The post drew ire from a full spectrum of ideologies for perpetuating a racist stereotype. Even Texas Lt. Gov. Dan Patrick called for Neilson to vacate his victory for the Harris County GOP chairmanship.


Neilson at one point said he would rescind his victory. But earlier this month, he showed up to a GOP organizational meeting and told several precinct chairs that he indeed planned on assuming office Aug. 3, according to the Tribune.


Over the last decade or so, iconic Adirondack chairs have migrated from the mountains of Upstate New York to the beaches of the Outer Banks. They've gone from traditional forest green to the bright colors of our favorite fruits.


However, unlike, say, conformations in linear alkanes, which involve rotations about single bonds, it might not be immediately obvious how the chair on the left can be converted to the chair on the right.


What surprised me was how much it truly demands attention. This is no small piece. The lounge chair itself is massive and requires a wide berth, not to mention an ottoman that is large enough to be a seat in its own right, which explains why it works so well in sprawling, minimalistic spaces (and why owners of those spaces just have to have one).


Each lounge chair is hand-crafted in West Michigan with most in-stock options ready to be delivered to your doorstep within two to three weeks. For customized options, lead times may vary but estimated timeframes are indicated on the Herman Miller and DWR website. Additionally, customers can choose between in-home delivery for an extra $249 or in-home delivery at a specified time frame, which will run you an additional $349.


The cost of kids' bean bag chairs can range from under $100 to over $800, depending on material, use, and other features. Most will cost you between $100 and $300. Our best overall pick, the Moon Pod Bean Bag Chair, costs $300, though our tester recommends buying the crescent back pillow for an additional $140. The priciest option on our list is the Lovesac CitySac, which starts at $565, though we think it's worth the splurge for those that have the budget and room in their home or a large, plush bean bag chair that several members of the family can use. For a more budget-friendly option, we recommend the Big Joe Fuf Large Foam Beanbag Chair, which costs $119 and provides helpful back support for your kiddo, whether they're doing homework, gaming, or relaxing.


Depending on your high chair style, your baby may be able to sit at the table with you sooner than later. Reclining high chairs can be used when babies are as young as a few weeks old. Keep in mind, however, that these chairs are not meant for feeding infants solid food.


If your baby cries throughout dinner and wants to be at the table with you, it may be wise to invest in a reclining high chair early on. It will make your life less hectic as your baby can play happily in their high chair while you cook, clean, and eat.


Definition: The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seat tube.\n\n\n \n The seat tube length defines the size of the bike in a more meaningful way than the \u2018Small, Medium or Large\u2019 size structure. This is because it dictates the minimum and maximum height the saddle can be set, and therefore the height range of riders who can comfortably ride the bike, or how low they can drop the saddle for descending.\nTwo Medium frames, for example, will often have different seat tube lengths that will fit different riders. While the seat tube length doesn\u2019t directly affect the handling of the bike, important measurements for handling and fit, such as reach, must be compared to the seat tube length to define how long the bike is relative to the height of the rider.\nThe ratio of reach to seat tube length is particularly useful \u2013 some modern bikes have a longer reach than seat tube measurement.\nEffective top tube length\n\n\n The effective top-tube length relates to how the bike will fit when in the saddle. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition:\u00a0The length of a horizontal line drawn from the top of the head tube until it meets the centre of the seatpost.\n\n\n \n The effective top tube (ETT) provides a better idea of how roomy a bike will feel when you\u2019re sitting in the saddle, rather than using the basic top-tube measurement (from the top of the head tube to the top of the seat tube).\nTaken together with the stem length and offset of the saddle, it provides a good approximation of how stretched out the bike will feel to ride in the saddle.\nStack height\n\n\n Stack determines the minimum bar height relative to the bottom bracket. It\u2019s inter-related to the reach. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition:\u00a0The vertical distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre-top of the head tube.\n\n\n \n This determines how low the bars can sit relative to the bottom bracket. In other words, it determines the minimum bar height, with no spacers under the stem. Stack also has an important but rather unintuitive relationship with reach\u2026\nReach\n\n\n Reach is the most useful fit measurement. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The horizontal distance from the bottom bracket to the centre of the top of the head tube.\n\n\n \n Of all the commonly available numbers in a bike\u2019s geometry chart, reach provides the best impression of how a bike will fit. Along with the stem length, it defines how roomy the bike will feel when ridden out of the saddle, and alongside the effective seat angle, it determines how roomy the bike will feel when in the saddle too. There is one small caveat to that though, and it\u2019s to do with the stack height.\nTake two identical bikes, then make the head tube of one bike taller, so it has a higher stack height. Now if you measured the reach of those two bikes, the one with the extended head tube would measure shorter. That\u2019s because the head angle is not vertical \u2013 so, the longer the head tube, the further back the top of it becomes, and so the shorter the reach measurement. But if you used headset spacers on the original bike, such that the bar height was the same, both bikes would feel identical to ride.\nThis demonstrates how reach measurements are affected by stack height. When comparing reach between bikes remember the one with the higher stack height will feel longer than its reach figure would suggest.\nThe easiest way to measure reach is to butt the front wheel against a wall, then measure the distance from the wall to the bottom bracket and to the top of the head tube, then subtract.\nDown tube length\n\n\n Down-tube length is a handy alternative to reach, which doesn\u2019t depend on stack in the same way. It\u2019s easier to measure too. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the centre of the bottom of the head tube.\n\n\n \n Like reach, down-tube length provides an indication of how roomy the bike will feel, but it too is complicated by other factors.\nIn much the same way as reach is affected by stack height (the difference in height between the bottom bracket and the top of the head tube), down-tube length is affected by the difference in height between the bottom bracket and the bottom of the head tube.\nThis means down-tube length is only useful when comparing bikes with a similar wheel size and fork length \u2013 such that the bottom of the head tube is at roughly the same height. In this case, down-tube length can be a more useful (and measurable) number than reach.\nFront-centre\n\n\n Front-centre affects how far behind the front axle the rider\u2019s weight is likely to sit. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the front axle.\n\n\n \n The longer the front-centre, the less prone the bike will be to pitching forwards when faced with large bumps or hard braking. This is because the rider\u2019s weight will naturally sit further behind the front contact patch. This is why enduro and downhill bikes, meant for rough and steep terrain, have long front-centres.\nFor a given rear-centre length, a longer front-centre reduces the proportion of the rider\u2019s weight supported by the front wheel. This can reduce front-wheel traction unless the rider moves their riding position forwards, or the rear-centre is made longer too.\nRear-centre\n\n\n The rear centre, combined with the front-centre, determines the natural weight balance of the bike. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The horizontal distance from the centre of the bottom bracket to the rear axle (aka chainstay length).\n\n\n \n Because the front-centre is usually significantly longer than the rear-centre, mountain bikes tend to have a naturally rearward weight distribution. This can be countered by the rider consciously putting pressure on the bar, but doing so can be fatiguing and takes practice.\nThe ratio of rear centre to the total wheelbase defines the front-to-rear weight distribution when all the rider\u2019s weight is on the pedals.\nA typical mountain bike\u2019s rear-centre is about 35 per cent of its wheelbase, so the \u201cnatural\u201d weight distribution is 35 per cent front to 65 per cent rear, before the rider puts some weight on the grips.\nHaving 50 per cent or more weight on the front wheel is usually ideal for cornering, so bikes with shorter rear-centre:wheelbase ratios require more pressure on the grips to achieve this.\nOn steep descents, the weight distribution becomes more forward-biased anyway, particularly when braking, so this is most relevant for flat corners.\n\n A short rear-centre relative to the front-centre requires the rider to weight the front wheel through the hands to achieve a balanced weight distribution in flat turns. Immediate Media\nLonger rear-centres therefore make it easier (less tiring) to achieve a more balanced weight distribution, which benefits front wheel traction in flat corners.\nHowever, the longer the rear-centre, the more the rider\u2019s weight must be lifted (with the bottom bracket) to lift the front wheel. A shorter rear-centre therefore reduces the effort to manual, but increases the effort required to properly weight the front wheel through the bar.\nWheelbase\n\n\n The wheelbase is generally correlated with stability. The longer the wheelbase, the more settled the weight distribution between the axles. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The horizontal distance between the front and rear axles or contact patches; the sum of the rear-centre plus the front-centre.\n\n\n \n It\u2019s difficult to define the effect of wheelbase on handling. Because the wheelbase is made up of the rear-centre and front-centre (the latter is, in turn, determined by the reach, head angle and fork offset), different combinations of these variables could produce the same wheelbase, but different handling characteristics.\nGenerally, though, the longer the wheelbase the less the distribution of the rider\u2019s weight is affected by braking, gradient changes or bumpy terrain. In this sense, a longer wheelbase increases stability; there\u2019s a larger window between the rider\u2019s weight being too far forward (pitching over the bars) or too far back (looping out). This can be a bad thing because it takes more effort to manual or nose-pivot.\nThere is also a downside in tight corners. The longer the wheelbase, the greater the angle through which the bars need to be turned (known as the steering angle) for the bike to follow a corner of a given radius.\nAlso, the difference between the arcs taken by the front and rear wheels will be greater. This is why long-wheelbase vans are prone to clipping their rear tyres on the inside of corners. Of course, mountain bikes can be cornered differently to vans or even motorbikes \u2013 the back wheel can be hopped or skidded round tight corners if need be.\nBottom-bracket height\n\n\n Bottom-bracket height from the ground determines the centre of gravity height of the rider, which affects front-rear stability as well as cornering agility. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The vertical distance from the floor to the centre of the bottom bracket.\n\n\n \n The higher the bottom-bracket height, the higher the centre of mass of the rider, and so the more the bike tends to pitch when faced with bumps, hard braking or steep gradients. In this sense, a lower bottom bracket improves stability in much the same way as a longer wheelbase.\nCounterintuitively, a lower bottom bracket also makes the bike more agile when turning. When a bike leans into a corner, it pivots around the roll axis (the line connecting the two contact patches along the ground). By lowering the rider\u2019s centre of mass so it\u2019s closer to the roll axis, the amount by which the rider\u2019s mass drops as the bike leans into the turn is reduced, and the inertia of the rider when changing lean angles (when swapping from turning left to right, for example) is reduced.\nThe height of the centre of mass of the rider and bike above the roll axis is called the roll moment \u2013 the longer this distance, the slower the bike is to change the direction of lean.\nAs a result, bikes with lower bottom-bracket heights are generally easier to move in and out of turns.\nBottom-bracket height is affected by suspension sag and dynamic ride height, so longer-travel bikes need higher static bottom-bracket heights to compensate for the increased suspension travel. See the sections on sagged and dynamic geometry below.\nThe disadvantage of a low bottom bracket is obvious; it increases the chances of catching pedals or chainrings on the ground.\nIt\u2019s also worth remembering that the centre of mass of the bike and rider is typically well over a metre above the ground, so lowering the BB by a centimetre (an amount which will noticeably increase pedal-strikes) makes a small percentage difference.\nBottom-bracket drop\n\n\n Bottom-bracket drop determines the bottom-bracket height for a given wheel and tyre size. Jack Luke\/Matt Orton\n\n\n Definition: The vertical distance from the line connecting the wheel-axles to the centre of the bottom bracket.\n\n\n \n The bottom-bracket drop itself is less important than some people have supposed. The distance by which the bottom bracket hangs below the wheel axles is seen by some to directly determine the stability of the bike in turns, as if the bike\u2019s roll-axis (the line about which it turns when leaning into a corner) was at the height of the axles.\nThis argument was used in the marketing of 29in wheels, claiming that because the bottom bracket sat slightly below (not above) the axles, the bike was far more stable.\nIn fact, the roll axis


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